A Journey to the Remote Island of Moloka’i
A few days before the grim two-year anniversary of the Aug. 8, 2023, Lahaina fires, my wife and I traveled from our home in Maui, crossing the Pailolo Channel to the island of Moloka’i. As locals are quick to point out, despite being just a short distance away, Moloka’i is not Maui, not even.
The Hawaiian Islands are known as the most remote spot on Earth, and Moloka’i, along with the privately owned island of Niihau near Kauai, is among the most isolated within the chain—largely by choice. This place is fascinating, with a history marked by both hardship and stunning natural beauty.
Today, the only ways to reach Moloka’i are by boat into the harbor of Kaunakakai, the island’s sole town, or by a small, eight-seat prop plane operated by Mokulele Airlines. I visit every couple of years and find that little has changed on the island. With a population of about 7,300 people, roughly half of whom live in Kaunakakai, the economy is largely based on agriculture due to the limited number of small resorts and sparse tourism.
Tourism is present but not always warmly received. This sentiment was reflected in a homemade roadside sign we encountered: “Visit, spend, go home.” It’s a message that resonates with many who value their way of life over outside influence.
There have been some recent connections between Moloka’i and Santa Cruz County. For instance, Capitola’s Ryder Walding, 17, finished 7th in the Molokai 2 Oahu Paddleboard World Championships, completing a 32-mile journey across the Kaiwi Channel in six and a half hours.
One significant change on the island is the return of Bayer/Monsanto to grow corn for seed and trait development after a period of protest in 2014. A court ruling later overturned the ban, leading to a shift in local sentiment. While there was initial anger over the crop, many now accept it as a source of much-needed jobs.
Historically, sorrow and distrust run deep on Moloka’i, where many residents hold onto cultural traditions that predate the islands' incorporation into the United States. James Michener’s novel "Hawaii" captures this struggle, particularly through its depiction of the Kalaupapa Peninsula, a leprosy settlement established in 1866. The novel highlights the resilience of those who lived there and the dedication of figures like Father Damien, who devoted his life to improving their conditions.
Kalaupapa remains largely off-limits to visitors, though it can be viewed from an overlook at Pala‘au State Park. The park also features unique rock formations that attract visitors.
On the west side of Moloka’i, there were once plans for major housing developments, but local protests led to their abandonment. Many of the remaining structures are now in disrepair, overtaken by the jungle.
In the town of Maunaloa, Daphne Socher runs the Big Wind Kite Factory, a business she and her late husband started 48 years ago. Despite slow summer months, she finds success in winter when more tourists, often referred to as "snowbirds," visit.
East Moloka’i offers breathtaking landscapes, including towering waterfalls and lush rainforests. The Kamakou Preserve, managed by the Nature Conservancy, protects rare native plant species and requires a challenging two-hour drive via a dirt road.
Halawa Valley, once a thriving taro farming community, is now home to squatters along its shoreline. The valley, which was abandoned after tsunamis in 1947 and 1957, feels isolated and perilous, with narrow roads offering stunning ocean views.
After three days on Moloka’i, returning to Maui felt like stepping into a different world. The traffic, resorts, and housing crisis made it seem familiar yet foreign, much like Santa Cruz.
For further reading, consider Alan Brennert’s novel "Moloka’i," which tells the story of a young girl sent to the Kalaupapa settlement. The book explores themes of resilience and hope amid hardship.
