Exploring the Wild Atlantic Way and the Causeway Coastal Route
House martins and swallows are a common sight along the coast, darting through the air as they catch insects in places like Glencar Waterfall in Donegal or above Marble Hill Strand beach. These small migratory birds have been traveling from the Sahara to spend their summers in the UK and Ireland for generations, and they also know about Northern Ireland’s Causeway Coastal Route.
The Wild Atlantic Way, which celebrated its 10th anniversary last year, has become a popular route for travelers exploring the rugged coastline of Ireland. It stretches from Kinsale in Cork up to Belfast, covering over 1,500 miles. The Causeway Coastal Route, a 120-mile stretch that starts in Belfast and ends in Derry – Londonderry, is often overlooked by those who rush through the area. However, with the Shared Island initiative, efforts are being made to connect these two routes and highlight the unique experiences each offers.
Tourism Northern Ireland and Fáilte Ireland have joined forces to promote the idea that once you finish the Wild Atlantic Way, the journey isn’t over. The cliffs don’t end, the sea continues, and there’s still plenty of Guinness to enjoy. Travelers can choose to do both routes over three to four weeks, but even a few days can reveal a wealth of sights and experiences.
One such traveler is Paul Cole, a member of the Whitehead Community Association. He takes visitors on an e-bike tour of Blackhead Coastal Path, sharing local stories and treats like Fifteens, a childhood snack made with 15 digestives, 15 marshmallows, and 15 glace cherries. Whitehead is a charming seaside town with a rich history, including the Whitehead Railway Museum, where visitors can see large locomotives and watch house martins flit around colorful houses.
Paul’s enthusiasm for his hometown is infectious, and he even shares a bit of humor about the lack of a graveyard in the town. His love for Whitehead extends to the local pubs, where a pint of Guinness is always welcome. One such place is The Harbourview Hotel in Ballymena, Northern Ireland’s first whiskey hotel. Once known as The Londonderry, it was built in 1848 by the Marchioness of Londonderry and later owned by Winston Churchill. The hotel is filled with ivy and elegant decor, making it a perfect spot to enjoy a glass of whiskey.
Adrian McLaughlin, co-owner of The Harbourview, explains how adding a drop of water to whiskey can enhance its flavor. This tip helps make the drink more enjoyable, especially given the recent boom in Irish whiskey. In 2012, there were only four distilleries in Ireland, but now there are 54. Despite this growth, drinking whiskey neat can be harsh on the throat, making the addition of water a helpful trick.
The food along the coast is equally impressive, with generous portions and flavorful dishes. At the Manor House on Rathlin Island, diners can enjoy lobster Thermidor, served in a vibrant red sauce that matches the beaks of puffins soaring above the cliffs. The experience includes a boat trip to view the wildlife, with a humorous warning about the “rollercoaster part” of the journey.
At The Rusty Mackerel, a pub near Slieve League, the highest accessible cliffs in Europe, the cheesy fish pie with brown bread brings a taste of autumn to the table. Meanwhile, at Willow and Lore, a fire, feast, and folklore experience, Irish butter is spread thickly on crackers and potato bread, leaving a lasting impression on every bite.
Derry, or Londonderry, serves as a key connection point between the Wild Atlantic Way and the Causeway Coastal Route. The city’s Peace Bridge symbolizes unity and is a must-see attraction. Hannah Ramraj from Derry By Fork leads a tour that highlights the city's culinary delights, including the spicy Catanzaro sandwich and fresh loaded nachos at Guapo. A visit to Guildhall Taphouse for a pint of Dopey Dick, named after an orca that swam up the Foyle in 1977, is a must for any visitor.
Coffee lovers will appreciate Terra Bakehouse, where zero waste is a priority, and even leftover milk is used to make ricotta. At O’Loughlin’s Irish Bar, the lively atmosphere and traditional music create a memorable experience, with locals singing and dancing together.
As the road trip comes to an end, a final dip in the sea can rejuvenate the spirit. Mullaghmore is known for big wave surfing, while Strandhill offers consistent waves for beginners. Although swimming is not allowed due to rip currents, surf schools like Atlantic Surf School provide lessons for those eager to try. Instructor Zuhe Coronil, originally from Venezuela, shares his passion for the sport and encourages students to focus on their technique and mindset.
After a day of surfing, the energy is high, and the meal at The Venue Bar and Restaurant, featuring creamy baked crab claws and salsa verde-drenched sea bass, is a fitting end to the journey. As the sun sets, house martins continue their flight, guiding travelers along the coast and reminding them that following the birds and surfers is a sure way to enjoy the beauty of the region.
