La Fortuna Adventures: Fun for the Whole Family

One of the best places to go in Costa Rica with kids is the Arenal-La Fortuna area in the country’s northern interior. It’s a great place to try out epic adventures, dip in thermal baths and spend quiet moments listening to nature. This tropical rainforest is home to many of Costa Rica’s most beloved inhabitants like sloths and monkeys, and the massive Arenal Volcano rising from the trees provides one of Costa Rica’s most iconic backdrops for it all. In short, if this is your first family trip to Costa Rica you’ll definitely want to visit this area!

For better or worse, you should understand that there’s no way you’ll be able to experience all the cool things to do in La Fortuna and Arenal. You could stay here for weeks without getting bored, so with just a few days you’ll have to prioritize.

Where to stay in La Fortuna with kids

Hotel Los Lagos Spa & Resort

If you’re visiting La Fortuna with kids, it’s hard to imagine a more family-friendly place to stay than Hotel Los Lagos Spa & Resort . Depending on how you want to structure your visit to the area, you can either use it as a base to get out and explore or treat it almost like an all-inclusive (though it isn’t). This is one of two properties I initially booked in the area, but ultimately we visited on a day pass rather than staying here.

What’s the appeal? For starters, this is an absolutely beautiful property, with more than a dozen pools surrounded by lush landscape… all with Arenal Volcano providing a stunning backdrop. We spent hours bopping between the hot and cold pools, going down the incredibly fast water slide (there’s a slower one for little kids) and reading on the pool deck. The pools are all fed by nearby natural springs, some cold and some geothermally heated.

But before all that, we had the adventure of a lifetime on the Los Cañones zip line tour right on property! You can read more about our experience later in this article, but what’s great is that since it’s located right on the property our family was able to split up to accommodate our kiddo who didn’t feel comfortable hanging from a carbon fiber cable. You can also opt for horseback riding right on site, and with kids in tow it’s incredibly convenient that you don’t have to drive anywhere for activities. If you don’t stay at Los Lagos, you can purchase a day pass for the pools or gain free access with any paid tour.

We had a very solid meal at the poolside restaurant, and the prices were shockingly reasonable for resort dining. I also spoke with a family that was staying at Los Lagos with their three young children and they said the room was perfect. It’s a good choice if you’re visiting La Fortuna with a large family, as the two queen rooms also have twin trundle beds that pull out from under each bed!

The location is also excellent because it’s close to town for activities and restaurants but away from the hustle and bustle.

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Arenal Observatory Lodge and Trails

It’s not Los Lagos’ fault that we chose not the stay there, we just found a place that spoke to us even more: Arenal Observatory Lodge and Trails . This small, semi-rustic property is on the far side of Arenal Volcano and feels like it’s made of magic!

The Observatory was originally built in 1987 by the Smithsonian to study the volcano, and it was was subsequently converted to a hotel. Today it still retains the feel of a remote lodge and is a haven for birders. It’s truly unlike almost any other place we’ve stayed (except this one) and we love that it attracts like-minded travelers.

The rooms here are basic but comfortable. We booked a room with a view of the volcano and it was incredible to sit out and watch the toucans fly back and forth among the treetops while hummingbirds flitted around the bushes below. Our room did not have air conditioning but a very robust ceiling fan did the trick. But I was glad to have these PJs in the shorts and camisole version! There are no TVs here and wifi worked better in some parts of our room than others, all of which was fine for us.

The deck behind the lodge restaurant is a hub of activity for both guests and birds – you could spend hours here just enjoying the wildlife. But you won’t want to miss the property’s 7 miles of trails, of which we walked about 5.5 miles; you’ll see plenty of wildlife, a waterfall, hanging bridges and ascend the 92 foot tall observation tower that gives you a bird’s eye view of the rainforest.

There’s also a range of tours available, some free and some paid. A free naturalist tour is offered 2-3 times per day or you can pay for birding tours and a “night walk” to check out frogs and other nocturnal creatures. You do need to request birding tours at least 24 hours in advance so that a guide can come from town, and some of the tours (like the night walk) full up quickly especially if there’s a large group staying on-site.

There are also a few great amenities geared specifically for kids at Arenal Observatory Lodge. For the youngest visitors there’s a small play set and a shallow kids pool. Older children and teens will enjoy the regular pool, hot tub and game room – it includes fooseball, ping pong and more but still has an amazing few of the volcano and rainforest so that everyone can enjoy their experience at the same time!

Breakfast is included in all of the room rates. You’ll enjoy a buffet of fruits, breads and juices plus your choice of a hot entree. Choose from items like a typical Costa Rican breakfast, American breakfast, French toast and more. We had a very good dinner here as well – the sea bass and Caribbean chicken were stand-outs.

For an afternoon refresh, be sure to drop by the smoothie shop and attached museum after hiking! You’ll get much-needed hydration and enjoy the cooler interior temperatures.

Keep your eyes peeled for wildlife sightings on property – we saw coatis, agoutis and peccaries plus so many birds: a million toucans, honey creepers, guans, tanagers, oropendula, bananaquits and many more.

We also had a wonderful couples massage here on our last day! The setting is absolutely beautiful, with a wall that’s open to the sounds of birds and waterfalls as you enjoy some much-deserved self-care.

The upside/downside to staying at Arenal Observatory Lodge is that it’s about 35-40 minutes to get to the town of La Fortuna, while popular spots like Tabacon and Mistico (more on those below) are a bit closer. But we were honestly very surprised at how commercial and built up the town of La Fortuna is, so staying in the middle of nature suited us just fine. If you opt to stay here, plan your time accordingly and spend at least a half day (or two) just enjoying the property.

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Family-friendly luxury stays in La Fortuna

If you really want to splash out, there are a few amazing places to stay in La Fortuna that combine luxury with family friendliness.

The Springs

Photo credit: Expedia

This ultra-high end lodge has fewer than 100 rooms, but guests are in for all sorts of treats at The Springs . The smallest rooms here are over 700 square feet (including a massive balcony) so families will have plenty of room to spread out. Even large families will find a home here, as many of the rooms accommodate 6, 7 or even more people – you could plan for a multi-generational trip to Costa Rica with one of the suites or villas here.

When you leave your room you can choose from a dozen pools and springs, including features like a swim-up bar and a water slide. Some of the pools are more traditional and will be popular with water-loving kids, while others are nestled along forested trails for a more relaxed and natural experience. Without heading off the property you can participate in adventures like tubing, kayaking, horseback riding and wildlife tours – it’s a good taste of what this region of Costa Rica offers without having to go to different parts of town. I did hear from one family that stayed there that a sloth was hanging out near their balcony every day, which is pretty much every kid’s dream come true. Young visitors will love the game room and mini golf, while adults will definitely want to visit the spa here.

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Nayara Tented Camp

Photo credit: Expedia

For an even more unique stay, book your family of four at Nayara Tented Camp . This is glamping at its finest… including a private plunge pool that looks out at Arenal! You’re in such a remote area that you’re sure to encounter plenty of wildlife (including at the on-site sloth sanctuary), especially if you walk down the hill to Nayara Gardens (which is more affordable but doesn’t include some of the activities for Tented Camp guests).

Room rates here are very high, but some of the inclusions are great. Breakfast is complementary and made-to-order, and they’ll even do your laundry every day. You’ll even have your own naturalist guide to show you around the rainforested property.

If you just want to relax on-site, there are several restaurants available along with a spa, yoga classes and other daily activities – some specifically for Tented Camp guests.

Note: While there are larger tents available that can accommodate up to 12 guests, the prices are so astronomical that I really hesitate to recommend it for larger parties. For families of 6+, it’s more than double the price of The Springs.

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Getting to La Fortuna + getting around

Whether or not to rent a car in La Fortuna depends on where you stay and what you want to do. If you’re staying in town (or nearby) and proactively choose tours and activities that offer transportation, you can actually get by without a rental car. A lot of people do this! You’ll just need to book a reliable transfer from SJO airport or transfer from LIR airport depending on your itinerary.

We opted to rent a car since we were doing a longer Costa Rica itinerary with multiple stops. That worked out great and gave us the flexibility to combine multiple activities in a single day or choose activities that didn’t include transportation. We selected a mid-sized SUV with four wheel drive from Adobe and everything went smoothly for us. You’ll get a discounted rate, free addition of a second driver and even complimentary local delivery when you click below and book our reader-exclusive deal.

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Best things to do in La Fortuna with kids

I’ll be honest: I don’t think we did even half of the things to do in La Fortuna with kids! You could easily spend a week in the area without getting bored. For adventurous families, the options are really limitless. But if you’re like us, this is just one part of your family’s Costa Rica itinerary.

Treat the options below like a menu and choose what appeals to you most – just plan to come back again in the future, because you’re almost certain to feel like La Fortuna has more fun waiting for you!

Guided wildlife tour

One of the best reasons to visit Costa Rica with kids is to see the incredible wildlife up close! There’s really nowhere else like it in the world, especially if there’s a young sloth love in your family.

For better or worse, it can be incredibly difficult to spot wildlife on your own if you aren’t familiar with the animals’ behavior patterns, preferred species of trees and more. I strongly recommend that you go looking for wildlife with a guide at least once in Costa Rica.

We opted to visit Sloth Watching Trail , which is conveniently located just on the outskirts of downtown La Fortuna. We saw at least a half dozen sloths along with birds and a tiny red frog during our ~2 hour tour. The groups here top out at 15 people though ours was smaller, and the guide brought a monocular on a tripod to help everyone see (and take photos). I was glad that I brought two of these so that our family could keep observing while others had a turn at the monocular. Overall we had a great experience with the sloth tour.

Photo credit: Lana Vu

If you’re looking for an even more unique experience, don’t miss the Mistico Hanging Bridges . This large park outside of town offers 2 miles of trails that include six hanging bridge that swing you above the rainforest canopy. We skipped this because half of our family has a real phobia of heights, but if that’s not your situation be sure to go. Friends who have visited Mistico strongly recommend a guided tour as early as possible (most days you can book for 7am) – you’ll miss the crowds and are more likely to spot animals as they transition between night and day.

For a different perspective on Costa Rica wildlife, take a night tour near Arenal Volcano . You’ll see a wide variety of frogs, several types of snakes and potentially some mammals like sloths and anteaters.

Since I’m married to a “bird nerd” and we stayed at one of Costa Rica’s birding havens, naturally we took a tour with a local guide around the property of Arenal Observatory Lodge. She pointed out some things we couldn’t have spotted on our own and gave us interesting insights into life and nature in Costa Rica.

No matter which tour you opt to take, if you want to ensure you get high quality photos it’s worth considering what camera equipment you’ll bring. For wildlife photography you want a fairly fast lens with good zoom – so that you can give creatures their space – and enough manual controls that you can refine your focus. In a forested area, auto-focus will detect the edges of leaves and assume that’s where you want to focus rather than the bird or sloth hiding inside the foliage. I have dozens of those photos thanks to my kids!

I use this camera body with this zoom lens , but for a one-piece option you can consider this camera . It’s referred to as a “bridge” because it offers a solution in between point-and-shoot and bulkier interchangeable lens systems. Either of these options has a much larger sensor than your phone’s camera and will give you better quality (as long as you put in the effort to learn its features).

Zip lining

Whether you are an avid adventurer or curious to try out a very safe thrill, zip lining in La Fortuna should definitely be on your itinerary for Costa Rica with kids!

There are a few excellent options for zip lining in La Fortuna with kids. We opted for the Los Cañones tour at Los Lagos Hotel, Spa & Resort and it was a perfect day for the whole family! The views are amazing, with Arenal as the backdrop as you zip through the rainforest on 12 cables. We even had to pause our tour at one point because a family of monkeys was walking along the next line we needed to use!

The guides were excellent and made us feel incredibly safe, and thankfully there were no ladders to climb along the course: we drove to the highest elevation platform and started from there, with the lines all being a slight downhill ending right at the pool deck. Kids can either zip on their own or attached to the guide, and it’s fine for them to make a different choice each time.

We booked a morning zip lining tour, which gave us milder temperatures and a smaller group, and then enjoyed a poolside lunch and a whole afternoon hopping among the resort’s 11 different pools. They’re all spring-fed and range from refreshingly cold to hydro-massage hot tubs. This zip lining tour was ultimately the right choice for us because one family member was too afraid of heights to do it, and they were able to go straight to swimming and still have an awesome time without feeling left out of the fun.

The photos above were taken by the professional photographer that accompanied our group. It was absolutely worth paying for the reasonably-priced photo package!

Another option that gets rave reviews from families we know is Ecoglide . You’ll see their “school cable” from the main road in town as you drive by, but the main zip lining course goes pretty high up on the slope of Arenal. In total you’ll zip down 11 cables, plus there’s a hanging bridge you can cross. Ecoglide’s course is a little smaller than Los Cañones but you do have the option to book it as a private tour for basically the same cost as Los Cañones (though you don’t get the resort access for the day).

Regardless of where you zip line, you’ll want to wear clothing that can protect your skin from branches as you whiz through the rainforest canopy. I wore these pants , this top and these handy shoes . At the end of either La Fortuna zip lining tour you can purchase a very reasonably-priced photo package. I thought this was really worthwhile, as I was advised not to bring anything that I didn’t want to lose. It was also easier to focus on the experience and enjoying it with my kiddo rather than worrying about content creation!

Farm tour

While Costa Rica’s economy has evolved and diversified over the last 20 years, in many ways agriculture is still at its heart. More than a third of the country’s land is classified as agricultural and the sector employs more than one in every 8 Ticos. In short, to get a full picture of this beautiful country you’ll want to visit at least one of its many farms!

We added on a chocolate and coffee tour with our sloth tour discussed above. It wouldn’t be my recommendation. While the basic information was covered and there was plenty of coffee and chocolate to taste, it didn’t have the same immersive experience we’ve had elsewhere. We made that choice because we were somewhat short on time and it worked for our scheduling needs.

If you have the time to dedicate to a real farm tour, I would choose one of these instead:

  • North Fields – mostly chocolate, with some coffee and sugar came thrown in too
  • Don Juan – one hour coffee + one hour chocolate, fully accessible walking path (stroller friendly)
  • Don Olivo – mostly chocolate with a little coffee + animal watching thrown in

Hot springs

Photo credit: Lana Vu

Since La Fortuna sits at the base of Arenal Volcano, there are geothermal hot springs all over the area. You should definitely check out at least one!

If you’re staying at a place like Los Lagos, The Springs or Tabacon (pictured above) you’ll already have access to hot spring-fed pools – Los Lagos is the least “natural” of these settings, but it’s also the most budget-friendly (by far).

Many places around La Fortuna offer day passes, though availability varies by season and the popular ones can sell out in advance. We were very happy to spend our afternoon bouncing between hot and cold options, and when visiting with kids I think it’s important to have that flexibility – if we’d only had access to hot pools, my kids would have wanted to leave pretty quickly in the 90 degree air temperatures.

Here are a few options to check out for hot springs day passes near La Fortuna:

  • Tabacon – incredible, natural, high-end experience with a price tag to match
  • Ecotermales – lush setting and limited to 100 guests, but no cold pools
  • Los Lagos – mid-priced to match the medium sized facility, ultra family-friendly (but purchasing as part of a zip lining activity is a much better value)
  • Baldi – huge facility with many options but buffet gets middling reviews
  • The Springs – incredibly high-end hotel with a mix of chlorinated pools, spring-fed swimming pools and “secret” mineral pools accessed by a forest trail **two day pass

Cooking class

For families that love cultural travel, be sure to arrange a cooking class in La Fortuna. There are a few great options just outside of town.

The most popular cooking class in La Fortuna is El Fogón de Chela . It’s so popular that it’s often booked out weeks (or months) in advance during busy times of year. We weren’t able to do this due to availability but it looks like an excellent experience. You’ll be cooking with ingredients grown right in Doña Chela’s garden as you prepare a big traditional meal with your class. The entire experience lasts around two hours.

We opted for a newer experience, Rancho don Gerardo . It wasn’t like most cooking classes we’ve taken before, but instead a hybrid between a class and a multi-course tasting meal. It all felt intimate and well thought out, and of course the food was excellent!

Host Vinicio and his family were wonderful and it was a unique opportunity to really engage on a personal level with a local family – his tween son was even helping out so we all had an opportunity to chat in a mix of English and Spanish! Each party here has a private experience, with staggered use of the cooking space since you eat each dish right after preparing it.

The entire menu here is gluten-free and Vinicio had no trouble accommodating our family’s additional dietary restrictions.

Where to eat in La Fortuna

I won’t go in-depth on where to eat in La Fortuna with kids – we ate a number of our meals at Arenal Observatory Lodge (where we stayed) and had a fantastic dinner at the cooking class I wrote about above.

But I would be remiss if I didn’t mention Soda & Restaurante Rodríguez . It’s charming, it’s funky and the food is delicious! Between feeling like you’re dining in a treehouse and having an opportunity to paint a message to leave behind for future guests, it’ll be a real hit with kids of all ages.

Planning your family trip to La Fortuna

Ready for your family’s La Fortuna adventure? Check out these resources to jump-start your planning!

  • Discounted rental car from Adobe
  • Stay at Los Lagos
  • Stay at Arenal Observatory Lodge & Trails
  • Exploring Costa Rica’s Central Valley: Day Trip from San Jose
  • Andaz Papagayo Review: “Slow Mode” Done Right

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