The Magic of Night Trains and the Journey of Monisha Rajesh
Train travel has always held a certain allure, especially when it's nighttime. The idea of drifting through landscapes under the stars, surrounded by the gentle hum of wheels on tracks, captures the imagination in a way few other forms of transportation can. This week, we're joined by award-winning travel writer and journalist Monisha Rajesh, whose new book Moonlight Express: Around the World by Night Train explores the charm, nostalgia, and unique experiences of traveling by night train across Europe. From Austria’s Nightjet to Scotland’s Caledonian Sleeper, her journey is one of adventure, discovery, and a deep connection to the rails.
Lale Arikoglu, host of Women Who Travel, kicks off the conversation with a warm welcome to Rajesh, who has long been a go-to expert on train travel. With a career spanning over 15 years and more than 200 train journeys under her belt, Rajesh admits that her passion for trains has grown into an obsession. “It’s an obsession and a lifestyle now,” she says. Her fascination began with books like India in 80 Trains and Around the World in 80 Trains, but it was the idea of night trains that truly captivated her.
Rajesh describes her home as a “map of the world” with strings and pins marking every route she’s taken. But this map isn’t just a collection of places—it’s a time capsule of a world that has changed dramatically. Many of the routes she once traveled are now inaccessible due to geopolitical shifts, such as the closure of the Trans-Mongolian route because of Russian sanctions or the restricted access to North Korea. These changes highlight how fragile and fleeting some of these journeys are.
One of the most memorable moments from her travels came during a trip on the Venice Simplon-Orient-Express. As the train passed through Cannes Station, a man on crutches shouted at her, “Are you from the past or the future?” She responded, “Both!” It was a perfect encapsulation of the nostalgic yet forward-looking nature of train travel. While the Orient Express may seem like a relic from the 1920s, Rajesh notes that luxury and sleeper trains are experiencing a resurgence, particularly in Europe. This revival is partly due to the rise of private companies offering new routes and the growing interest in sustainable travel.
For Rajesh, the appeal of night trains lies in their ability to create a sense of immersion. Unlike day trains, which often feel rushed, night trains offer a slower pace, allowing travelers to settle in and truly experience the journey. There’s something about being on a sleeper train that feels like being in a temporary home—where you take off your shoes, curl up under a blanket, and fall asleep among strangers. This sense of surrender and connection is what makes the experience so special.
Rajesh also highlights the unique perspective that night trains provide. As you drift through the countryside, you wake up to new landscapes, crossing borders without realizing it. She recalls a journey from Vienna to Bucharest, where the beauty of fortified towns and vineyards unfolded before her eyes. These glimpses of hidden gems are something you simply can’t get from flying or driving.
Another favorite part of her journey is the dining car, which she describes as the heart of the train. It’s a place where people gather, share stories, and connect over meals. Whether it’s the aroma of grilled kebabs on the Dogo Express or the warmth of a friendly kitchen, the dining car offers a sense of community that’s hard to find elsewhere.
Rajesh also shares how children can be great icebreakers on trains. In Italy, for example, families are more open to interacting with others, making it easier to strike up conversations. Even without speaking the same language, people find ways to connect, whether through shared experiences, gestures, or the simple act of eavesdropping on a conversation.
Her travels have also led to unexpected gifts from fellow travelers. She carries a whistle given to her by a train driver, a pack of cards from the Orient Express, and a pocket watch from a Turkish railway enthusiast. These mementos symbolize the friendships formed on the rails and the deep connections that can happen in the most unexpected places.
As she prepares to release Moonlight Express, Rajesh encourages listeners to explore the world by train. Whether it’s the scenic route from Paris to Portofino or the historic Orient Express, there’s something magical about the journey itself. And for those who want to follow her adventures, she invites them to check out her Instagram, @monisha_rajesh, and support independent bookstores when pre-ordering her book.
In a world that often moves too fast, train travel reminds us to slow down, look around, and embrace the unknown. For Rajesh, it’s not just about reaching a destination—it’s about the stories, the connections, and the magic that happens along the way.
